So, are you better off getting a triathlon specific frame, or better off attaching clip-on aero bars to your road bike frame? This topic has been grilled to death on the internet but we’re going to talk about it regardless. I did my first two Ironmans on a road bike with aero bars and have some points that I think are useful to those weighing this decision.
Things to consider:
-The aerodynamic position on a triathlon bike allows your hips to stay open. If you were to put your back into the same aerodynamic position on a road bike, you will more than likely have a tighter hip angle, pinching off some of the blood flow and comfort you’ll need to perform well. If you have tight back and glute muscles, riding in any semblance of an aero position while on a road bike is going to be extremely uncomfortable. If you have a barrel chest, big gut, large breasts – same thing holds true. Your quads will be hitting your upper body on a road bike with aero bars. Moving the seat forward relative to the bottom bracket (which is basically what a tri-bike does) will open up your hips and give you more room to breath and stay comfortable,while all while being more aerodynamic. In our opinion this is what most people neglect to look at. They think because their body won’t allow them to be aero, they don’t need a triathlon frame with a steeper seat angle. TOTALLY wrong, it will help in a big way for the reasons mentioned above.
-More power when further over the bottom bracket. Have you ever seen professional cyclists when they’re giving it 110% in a Time trial or a solo breakaway? They’re sitting as far forward on the saddle as they can to generate the highest amount of power. Competitive cyclists have specific rules that keep their bike saddles from being too far forward – not applicable to triathlon and it’s good to take advantage of it (to a point). If you’ll be doing a lot of climbing out of the aero bars, you can generate more power by sitting further back on the saddle so you don’t want to take the forward saddle position too far.
-Braking and cornering on a road bike is more responsive. If you’re a nervous rider and don’t feel confident with your bike handling skills, a road bike is going to offer more forgiveness and security when it comes time to round a tight corner at speed or hit the brakes in an emergency.
Those are the salient points in this decision. But, don’t forget to keep in mind the enjoyment factor. Riding a road bike set up in training is a lot of fun if you’re out to simply ride with friends and see the countryside. If triathlon is looking to be a large part of your life, we would recommend jumping on to the triathlon specific frame set up.
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To me, this discussion always comes back to two issues. 1) training vs racing and 2) economics.
There is no question that there are huge advantages to using a time trial bike for racing (mainly speed). There are also huge advantages to using a road bike for training (safety and comfort).
Ideally you would have both bikes to use in their appropriate application. This of course brings us to the second point which is economics. Not everyone can afford both.
I usually recommend to triathletes that are getting serious to buy the nice racing bike but also invest in a nice used or mid-level training bike. Trying to do it all with one bike is like trying to own a race car for weekend track racing that you also use are your daily commuter car.
Hi JS,
Thanks very much for the comment.
We are, however, going to have to disagree with your point that there are huge advantages to using a road bike in training. Perhaps this is true in the winter while you’re putting in long base miles at very low heart rates. But during the year the need to train in your race position, and on your race specific bike, is very important. We have a triathlon specific training bike, and a triathlon specific racing bike that have almost identical set ups. Even that switch from one to the other is noticeable and we have to train on our race bike for at least a month before a big race. In fact, we’ve been training on our race set up(the exact same bike)for the last half of this season and we’ve both seen noticeable differences in the comfort level of the race set up. For next year I am pretty sure we won’t train on a training tri-bikes after the winter months.
I couldn’t agree more from a pure training methodology. In a vacuum I would choose to train almost exclusively on a race setup bike during season. Using the same muscles at the same angles as you going to race is a huge advantage.
My concern is more from the practical standpoint. When I say huge advantages, I am referring mainly to factors that arise out of external factors and have nothing to do with cycling. I live in a large urban area. Training rides are full of pot holes, stop and go lights, dodging pedestrians and cab drivers. Putting in 300-400 miles a week on a TT bike in that environment is frustrating, uncomfortable, can be dangerous and often isn’t allowed in any group training rides.
We all face different factors. If I lived in a rural area, or had access to a nice bike path, my training would be different. My point is that in my setting, even those of us very serious about racing, have to give up on the TT bike for most of our miles.
Thanks for the article though. Always good to hear what others are doing.
My first competitive bike was a road bike (still using) and with it I’ve completed a couple of HIM events, Ironman Lake Placid, and several shorter events. While it has worked well for me to get used to riding, cornering, and riding in groups for training, I’m definitely ready for a Tri-specific bike.
For aerodynamics and performance, there’s no doubt that a tri bike is the way to go. I’m looking to significantly drop my IM time in 2010 with a tri bike. I have issues with my back getting really sore if I’m down in the drops on my road bike for too long so my aerodynamics are horrible when I’m riding in the horns. Add to that upper body muscle fatigue from supporting myself and I have a lot of time I can make up.
Hey Jared,
That’s a great way to go. Learning to ride on a road bike is certainly easier than jumping straight to tri-bike. Now that you know you like this sport and are most likely hooked, a tri-bike is a great choice. I’m sure your improvement will continue.
T & H
I have used my road bike for a number of Olympic distance events and two Half IM’s over the past couple years. I recently ordered a triathlon specific frame which I’ll be looking to build up in the next 2 weeks. I spent countless hours researching what I wanted to find the absolute best deals on what I wanted. I’m sure that saved me at least $1500 on what I may have spent otherwise.
The reasons above were main factors in deciding to get my tri bike, but it is also my understanding that being in a more forward position on a tri bike will “save” the legs considerably for those long runs following the bike leg. I’ll be testing that out as soon as I get it set up and hopefully in time to train a few weeks before my next Half IM.
Hi Robert,
I have heard people say this about the tri-position as well. I wish I had an answer as to WHY that is. I will ask some more knowledgeable coaches and pass on the answer.
Cheers.
I average around 19-20 mph in an Olympic distance race…doing my first HIM next year. I shouldn’t care what others think, but am I fast enough for a tri bike? It’s one thing to get passed by someone when I’m on my road bike…90% of racers have road bikes. But to be on a tri bike, I sort of think you should be at a certain level. I’m sure people will disagree with this view, but I’m most people would agree with it…I think. The tri bike is a lot more hardcore and says something about where you are as a triathlete…accurate or not.
Also, I have a very nice road bike (2009 Trek Madone 5.5). What kind of additional speed should I expect to get out a of tri bike? 1 mph? 2 mph?
Thanks!
Having a tri bike is definitely a commitment to triathlon and only triathlon. You certainly won’t be doing any road races with it. But, if triathlon is solely what you do and what you plan to do in the years to come, it could be worth making the switch. That said, if you like heading out on the weekend group rides, mixing it up on some long climbs and fast descents, or just plain want to finish your upcoming half ironman for the joy and accomplishment of it…I would recommend staying with the Trek Madone.
It would be very hard to tell you specifically what kind of speed increase to expect. If you don’t have aero bars on your Trek you’re definitely losing some speed there. Frame aerodynamics are a very minimal issue to look at, your body causes exponentially more drag than a frame…but, as mentioned in the original ‘tip’ the tri bike could put you in a more aerodynamic position while also giving you more power to the pedals. Olympic distance events tend to have a lot more corners than half ironman events so the road bike set up could work better in that situation.
There is a lot to consider, but certainly don’t let other peoples opinion of your bike weigh in to the decision. If you’re happy on the road bike, then by all means enjoy the race on your road bike.
Best of luck, have fun, rip it up.
I think a tri-bike is more about a financial commitment that you want to stay with the sport. I was one of the guys huffing on a road bike and watching the tri bikes with disc wheels buzz by me. Now, I am the guy on the tri bike, hopefully doing the passing.
Don’t worry about what others think or if you deserve the bike or not… or if you are fast enough. Get the bike if you want it, can afford it, and enjoy having it and the sport of triathlon! There are advantages to a tri bike, but lets face it- unless you are a pro, you don’t need it. I certainly don’t NEED mine, but I sure like having it.
Yeah- it is a faster bike, no question. The position naturally makes you feel more comfortable at higher cadence. I think this saves the legs…. also, I think it may reduce hamstring fatigue to help on the run. Some of this could be myth. All in all, the lower you are and more out of the wind, the more aero you are. The tri bike helps with this.
“…it is also my understanding that being in a more forward position on a tri bike will “save” the legs considerably for those long runs following the bike leg”
This could be true, to an extent, from a muscular standpoint (as explained below) but for the most part “saving” the legs for the run has little to do with bike choice and more so with pacing choice. *Any* position will fatigue the legs if the athlete is unfit or unwise.
With that said, a road bike generally engages more muscle mass. By incorporating slacker angles (specifically the seat tube angle) the road bike cyclist uses his hamstring muscles to a greater extent than does the tri-bike cyclist. To illustrate it, imagine doing a squat from a seated position or a more upright position. The seated position is an off-balance position and it involves more muscle mass because of it. Of course, the road bike removes the balance necessary in this example but the muscle mass used is still comparable.
The hamstrings consist of major muscles and to fire them takes energy, but this energy is easily trained and the advantages for the road bike cyclist are readily apparent, as mentioned in the above discussion. Moreover, a tri-position is shown to employ a broader range of muscle fibers within the quadriceps, long with the back and neck junction, and so some might argue that a tri-bike would fatigue you sooner. Regardless, any bike deemed uncomfortable would do more harm than would a comfortable bike, no matter its official designation. The key is in having a proper/optimal bike fit and enough training time within that “fit”. Opening the hip angle, for the most part, offers a more comfortable position. And, of course, it usually brings about a more aerodynamic position (the word “usually” is used quite liberally here…some triathletes may have an open hip angle and yet a torso that stands proudly perpendicular to the wind!). This “hip opening” argument is also one of the reasons more and more research seems to be leaning toward shorter cranks when in the tri-position…along with less muscle mass used, lower back potential, faster application of force, etc.
Anyway, all said, the primary key is training/adaptation time (i.e., the body will usually adapt to whatever it is forced to…{there’s the “usually” word again!}).
Secondly, an optimal fit (one that takes in to account the goal that is trying to be achieved—i.e., 112 miles in 6hrs, followed by a long walk)—needs to be employed. A road bike, just as Heather and Trevor mention, is a most likely the better choice for the beginner, while a full-fledged tri-bike is a better choice for those who have the time to put toward adapting to its more radical position. A tri-bike is no “better” than a road bike just as an apple is no better than an orange. Both tastes are acquired.
Thanks for the comments. I do have aerobars and can get pretty aerodynamic, but I’m sure the tri bike would be even moreso. I am very much dedicated to triathlon…started just last year with 2 sprints, got hooked, completed 5 sprints + 1 olympic this year, planning for 1 sprint + 4 olympics + 1 HIM next year…and if all goes well, 1 sprint + 1-2 olympics + 1-2 HIM + 1 IM the following year. So now the tri bike becomes something I should seriously consider. Your point about olympic distance races having more turns is interesting…good point. It would be great if I could borrow or rent a tri bike, adjust it for my body, and train with it for a few weeks. Anyone wanna borrow me their bike?
The problem with aerobars on a road bike is that the downtube is shorter, which means the cranks are under you more instead of behind you more, like on a tri bike. People always refer to the seat tube angle, but it is more than that. The greater seat tube angle means that if the top tube is the same length, the down tube is longer which pushes the cranks further behind you. Because the cranks are further behind you, your torso and legs are not at a more acute angle which is what happens with a road bike with clip on bars. Most road bikes with clip on bars are hard to ride in that position for more than 15 minutes or so, where a triathlon bike you can ride in the aero bars the entire time. It is all int he design of the frame and more than just the aero bars. Also, it is not uncommon for a the proper fitting triathlon frame to be a smaller size frame than a road bike frame. In other words, if you ride a 56cm road frame, youa re probably a 54cm triathlon frame. Don’t buy the same size, the geometry is so different… go to a GOOD shop that KNOWS tri-bikes and get fitted. Erase what you know about road fitting and start all over. I ride a 54cm road frame and I have a 51cm tri-bike. Especially, with some manufacturers, the bikes are so adaptable with seatposts and stem risers, bikes can fit and accomodate lots of different people. In other words, on most Cervelo’s, the fron seatpost position will give you a 78 degree seat angle and a effective 51cm top tube length, but flipping the seat to the back hole on the seatpost gives you 76 degree seat angle and a effective 54cm top tube length. Be open minded to fitting on a tri-bike.