Gluing a tubular

This is the best way to glue a new tire and new wheel.  There are some slight changes to think about it you’re using a wheel or tire that already has some glue on it.  In that case, you could more than likely avoid the initial layer of glue.  With a new tire and a new rim you should apply a very thin layer of glue to both and let it dry before putting on the fresh stuff and mounting.  Basic steps are as follows:

Step #1: Stretch the tire – you’ll want to put the tire on a rim and pump it up.  Leave it for a few hours.  This will stretch it out and make it much easier to apply once you’ve got the glue on.

Step #2. Seal the valve extender – if you’re using a rim that needs a valve extension you need to make sure the connection between valve and extender is good.  There’s nothing worse than trying to pump a newly glued tired only to find out the air won’t go in.  Use plumbers sealing tape as shown and MAKE SURE the presta valve is OPEN.  Twist it open hard and even apply a very small dab of glue on the tip to keep it that way.

Step #3 – Get a hard drying glue – There are two types of tubular glue.  Tacky and hard.  The tacky is not good for hot weather, and it’s very messy to put on.  The hard drying stuff is perfect and much easier to apply without a mess.  Tacky glue is white (looks like the stuff you used in grade 1 except much thicker), hard glue is usually transparent with a slight colour to it.

Step #3 – Apply a layer of glue to rim - On the rim use pea sized drops as shown.  Then spread it with your finger.  Use just enough to cover the rim area extending to the next drop of glue.  4-5 drops of glue at a time works the best.  On a spoked rim place the glue after each spoke hole and avoid getting any inside.  Choose a spreading finger that won’t push the glue over the top of the rim and start smoothing out the drops.   Don’t bother leaving a gap with no glue anywhere unless it’s very very small.

Step #4 – Apply glue to the tire as well - The pea sized drops don’t work quite as well on the tire.  Inflate the tire so that it turn inside out.  Most decent tubulars will do so, but if not, you’ll just have to work from the inside.  Lay down a thin line of glue along the center line of the tire tape.  Do about 30 centimeters at a time and then spread it out evenly.  Careful not to get any on the actual tire.

Step #5 – let it dry – If you’re using a new tire and new rim you should let both dry.  Then when you’re ready to mount the tire simply put a fresh layer of glue on the rim using the same technique as above.  No need to put another layer on the tire.  Avoiding a fresh coat of glue on the tire will save some messy sidewalls as you put the tire on.

Step #6 – Mount the tire – Once you’ve got the fresh coat of glue on the rim, work quickly to put the tire on (let the air out first) so that you can line the tire up properly before anything dries too much. Start at the valve and pull evenly on both sides, working your way around.  The last bit is the toughest and takes practice to do without causing a mess.  Try to turn the tire inside out with your thumbs and roll it so it sits properly.  Now work your way back around the tire making sure the rim tape is even on both sides.  Pump it up and put it on the bike.  Spin the wheel and look for any wobbles or bounces.  Once it’s on there it’s good to do a couple revolutions of the wheel with your full weight on the bike.  This will push everything together nicely.

Voila.  They also make really good clinchers now-a-days.  There’s a huge debate as to which is better.  In a race, changing a tubular is quicker, provided you can get the tire off.  If you flat a clincher you’ve got check for debris. If that happens in a race you’re not going to do a good job, leaving the probability for another flat pretty high.